The imposing façade of the Church of St Paul’s, also known as Mater Dei, is all that is left of the church and college that once stood in the heart of Macau. Richly adorned with fine religious carvings and motifs, it has been called a "sermon in stone", and draws a sizable number of visitors to its World Heritage listed steps.
The History of the Ruins of St Paul’s
Designed by Italian Jesuit Father Carlo Spinola and built primarily by Japanese craftsmen, refugees from anti-Christian persecution in Japan, the church is an example of the east-west mix that characterizes Macau. A Latin cross crowns the façade, while beneath a bronze statue of Jesus Christ dominates the second tier. Lilies and chrysanthemums surround the statue, giving a hint of the Japanese connection. The chrysanthemum was the official symbol of the Japanese imperial family.
The Jesuits arrived in Macau in the 1560s, and played a major role in facilitating trade between China and Japan. They gained particular respect in China for their emphasis on science and education. The Church of St Paul’s was an example of this. Part of a wider complex, it was opened in 1565 as a religious institution, before being elevated to the status of a college in 1594, the first western college in Asia.
Archaeological research has shown that the complex was a city within a city, complete with garden, infirmary, church, seminary, library, press and workshop rooms. It became a model for other religious orders who ventured to Macau in subsequent years, such as the Franciscans and Dominicans.
After the expulsion of the Jesuits, the complex was modified for use as a barracks, with only the church retaining its religious function.The disastrous fire that destroyed the church came in 1835, leaving just the façade and steps.
Visiting the Ruins of St Paul’s
Archaeological work on the site took place between 199 and 1996, with the site opening to the public in 1997. The small Museum of Sacred Art and the Crypt are hidden away behind the facade. Entrance is free.
Situated near the imposing Mount Fortress, by the intersection of Rua de Sao Paolo and the Rua de Santo Antonio, the Ruins of St Paul’s are easy to find. Fringed with flowers, the flight of stairs leading up to the façade is usually full of people. Behind the facade is a staircase which enables visitors to climb up and get a marvellous view of the city.
A map of the sites making up the Historic Center of Macau, which was inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2005, is available from the Macau Tourist Office.
Paris Franz - Paris Franz is a London-based freelance journalist, specialising in the arts, history and travel.
